The Bosphorus Strait divides Istanbul into its eastern Asian side and its western European side. Central Istanbul, including the historic sites, is on the European side. This quarter is itself divided almost in two by the natural harbor of the Golden Horn (Halic). Tiny fishing boats and day cruisers share the Bosphorus with enormous international cargo ships, navy vessels, tankers and giant luxury liners from Europe. The two largest ports, Eminonu and Karakoy, are on opposite sides of the Golden Horn, but are linked by the Galata Bridge. Karakoy port. (0212) 249 57 76) is where luxury cruise ships headed for the Aegean and Mediterranean dock, as well as smaller CIS vessels. The major commuter ferry lines (see Public Transport in the Getting Around section) mainly depart from Eminonu, Karakoy, Besiktas and Uskudar.

Ferry and boat services: Turkish Maritime Lines. (0212) 245 53 66 or 249 92 22) provides car and passenger ferry services from Kabatas dock (between Karakoy and Besiktas) eastwards along the Black Sea, stopping at Sinop, Samsun, Ordu, Giresun, Zonguldak, Rize and Trabzon over three days and then returning by the same route. An overnight car ferry service from Istanbul to Izmir also leaves Kabatas on Fridays at 1500 during the summer (journey time - approximately 19 hours). The return voyage leaves Izmir on Sunday at 1200.

Faster, more expensive sea-buses. (0216) 336 88 19 or (212) 249 15 58) connect Istanbul to Yalova, Cinarcik, the Prince's Islands, Bandirma and the Marmara Islands. These depart from Kabatas dock on a changing seasonal schedule.

Transport to the city: Both Eminonu and Karakoy ports and all the ferry terminals and quays around them, have rows of buses, taxis and dolmus lined up outside. Taking a taxi is probably the easiest method of reaching the main tourist areas.